Today’s tip of the toque goes to fellow foodie Sharon Nimtz, who called me out in a recent column for not including Costantino’s deli in my weekly trip through
hole-in-the-wall restaurants.
Sharon’s favorite — eggplant Parmesan — is not one of mine, so I’ll leave the superlatives to her on that one.
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What does a boy who grew up on a cattle ranch out west know about fish?
It’s self-defense, really.
The first thing a steak guy learns when he orders a sirloin east of Chicago is: don’t. It’s kind of like getting cheddar or maple syrup when I go back to visit my folks. It’s got the same name, but it’s not the same food. Or when I do find the genuine article, it’s crazy expensive, and you’ve still got to trust a cook who has never, ever scratched his steak behind the ears, back while it still had them.
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Mendon - So when we rolled into the Thai Star in Mendon for lunch last week, I was eager to get something that bit back. It turned out my dining companions were less fond of the whole capsaicin-endorphin/pain-pleasure cycle than I, but that’s OK, because the menu wisely starts off with a surplus of safe, not-spicy-by-Vermont-standards food, with an optional four-star system where you can request anything from “touch of spicy” to “very spicy.” We started with a sampler of appetizers — spring rolls, chicken satay and dumplings. My healthy-food companions preferred the fresh spring rolls — raw veggies rolled in soft rice paper — to the Thai spring rolls, which are deep-fried. I insisted on pan-fried, not steamed dumplings, however. Sometimes you just can’t compromise your principles.
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Wallingford - The untimely death of (Chef) Beat (Bee-aht) Schonbachler shook up circles upon circles of people all the way from Switzerland to Wallingford and Rutland to New York and, well, the world. It’s not that Beat was a self-important person who inflicted himself on others — far from it. He was so entirely unassuming and warm and genuinely interested in others that people loved him from the first time they laid eyes on him, and they passed him from one circle to another as though he were a gift.
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It’s an enduring mystery to me why so many New England sandwich shops open with a menu of hot Italian, turkey, roast beef and ham. It’s more of a mystery why so many seem to thrive when the big choices they offer are American or Swiss, lettuce or cabbage, onions or pickles.
That’s not to deprecate a good hot Italian, mind. Anyplace that starts with capicola and mortadella instead of “hot ham” and bologna is worth at least a second visit. But there’s so many more ways to stuff a loaf of bread that it seems like a waste not to experiment a little.
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